Graco Swing My Sweet Peace $75.97

Fisher Price High Chair model L7031 $62.97

Fisher Price Rocker/Seat Breenwood Collection model N8143  $35.97

Toddler Bed $38.97  (retails for $179)

Fisher Price Jumperoo Precious Planet $38.97

June 12-13, 2010

On any clothing or shoes item.  Coupon must be printed and presented.

Coupon is transferable.

Print or email to friends and family.  One per customer per day.

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• Scrape off whatever you can.
• Fresh protein stains can often be removed by just soaking and agitating in cold water before washing. If hot water is used first, it can cook the protein, causing coagulation between the fibers in the yarns of the fabric, making the stain more difficult to remove.
• Soak in cold water using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.
• Launder in warm (not hot) water, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash. (Never put a stained fabric in a dryer. The heat from the dryer can set the stain.)
• If color stain remains, launder using chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or with all fabric bleach. However, if bleach is used, rewash to be sure all bleach has been removed because baby’s skin is sensitive.
• According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, adding one cup of white vinegar to each laundry load during the rinse cycle breaks down uric acid and soapy residue, leaving baby clothes and diapers soft and fresh. But, be sure you use WHITE vinegar.

Blood

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• Flush cold water through the stain and scrape off crusted material.
• Soak for 15 minutes in a mixture of 1 quart of lukewarm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid hand dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia. Use cool/lukewarm water. Heat can permanently set protein stains. Rub gently from the back to loosen stain.
• Soak another 15 minutes in above mixture. Rinse. Soak in enzyme product for at least 30 minutes. Soaked aged stains for several hours. Launder.
• If the blood stain is not completely removed by this process, wet the stain with hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. Caution: Do not leave this mixture longer than 15 minutes. Rinse with cool water.
• If blood stain has dried, pre-treat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of granular laundry product and water. Launder using bleach safe for fabric.

Chocolate

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• Treat the stain with a prewash spray or pre-treat with a product containing enzymes. Rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder.
• If stain remains, re-launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. If stain still remains, treat as a “Dye Stain.”

Crayons

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• The best way to deal with crayons is to get advice right from the horse’s mouth….Crayola! See their removal tips Crayola.com.
• For another option, here’s what another source says: Scrape excess crayon with the dull edge of a butter knife.
• Wash in hot, soft water with soap, such as Ivory and 1/2 cup baking soda for 10 minutes.
• If the stain remains, work soap paste into the stain. Wash 5 minutes. Rinse.
• To remove any remaining color use bleach or color remover as safe for the fabric. Always test for color fastness.

Dye Stains, Dye Transfer

Dye stains (incl. mustard, etc.) can be very difficult to remove. Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• Soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Check the garment care label and check for color fastness first. And, be aware that during soaking all colors may be lightened.
• If the stain remains and the garment is colorfast, soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Again, test for colorfastness first.
• Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the garment or cause irreversible damage. Therefore, it is important to check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by bleaching, and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric.
• Note: To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach, mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minute, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powered bleaches have directions for doing colorfastness tests.
• There are also a number of dye removers/strippers, such as one from Rit, which are available in drug and grocery stores. However, color removers will also take out fabric colors as well as the stain.

Fruits and Fruit Juices

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.
For Cherry and Blueberry stains see Dye Stains

• Launder with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
• Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product.
• To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric.
• If all the sugars are not removed a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar is carmelized.

Grease, Hand Lotion, Make-Up (oil based), Ointment/Salve & Motor Oil

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• Saturate light stains with a pretreatment spray stain remover and wait several minutes for it to penetrate. Rub with a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder

If color stain remains, launder with chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or use an all-fabric bleach. Always test for colorfastness before using bleach.

Place heavy stains face down on folded paper towels. Apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. (Carefully read and follow instructions on the product package.) Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.

• If color stain remains, treat as a “Dye Stain.”

Gum

Important – Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings provided by the carpet manufacturer. Rugs and carpets with natural fibers and/or certain dyes may require special treatment. If in doubt contact a cleaning professional for advice/service. Also follow these General Rules for stain treatment.

• Freeze the gum using an ice cube.
• Shatter the frozen gum with a knife handle and vacuum. Some citrus based products such as De-Solv-It® or Orange-Sol® have been demonstrated to break down the stickiness of gum so that it can be removed.

Adhesive Tape, Glue (Airplane)

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• Rub ice on the area and carefully scrape off what you can with the dull side of a butter knife or a spoon.
• Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover. Wait a couple of minutes for the product to penetrate.
• Rub with heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder immediately.
• For difficult stains, apply dry-cleaning fluid to the back of stain over absorbent paper towels. Let dry, rinse, and proceed per above. Read and carefully follow the instructions on the product label regarding useage and handling.

Mud

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

• Scrape off whatever you can.
• Soak and agitate in water before washing to further remove material.
• Soak tough stains using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.
• Launder normally, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash.

Grass see- Dye/Dye transfer

Ink – Permanent

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove.

• To have any chance you need to treat immediately. The first step is to force water through the stain before it dries to remove excess ink. Allow to dry.

Sponge the stain with dry cleaning solvent (read and follow the directions carefully, it is toxic). Allow the fabric to dry. Rub a liquid detergent into the stain. Rinse.

Soak the stain in warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia have been added.

Rinse and repeat if stain is lessoning. Launder.

• Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. Follow package instructions. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye fastness in a hidden are before using. Also, be aware that these products will affect all colors on the fabric.

Mildew

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

Mildew is a growing organism that must have warmth, darkness, and moisture to survive. Mildew actually eats cellulosic fiber and can also attack manufactured fibers, causing permanent damage and weakening of fibers and fabrics

• To treat mildew first carefully brush or shake off mildewed area.

Pre-treat the stains by rubbing the areas with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric, using bleach safe for fabric. (Chlorine bleach is best if OK for the fabric.) Always check for colorfastness before using bleach.

Let item dry in the sun.

• Badly mildewed fabric may be damaged beyond repair. Old stains may respond to flushing with dry cleaning fluid, i.e., Carbona, Energine, Goddard’s (Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label).

Odors

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

Most odors should be removed by normal laundering.

• • For stubborn odors place calcium carbonate crystals, activated charcoal, or soda in an open container and store with clothes in the closet, or sprinkle the clothes with soda, let stand, and then vacuum.
  • Although a little odd, for really persistent odors, try placing a thin layer of kitty litter on the clothing and let it stay for a couple of days. Then vacuum. It works!

Rust

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

Removing rust stains can be difficult. Rust stains cannot be removed in normal laundering. Do not use chlorine bleach, chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent.

• Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a commercial rust remover, or by repeated applications of lemon juice and salt on the stain. Do not let dry between applications.
• Rinse thoroughly and launder with a liquid laundry detergent and oxygen bleach, following directions.

• If safe for fabric, boil in solution of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar per pint of water. Rinse thoroughly.

• Severe rust staining may be removed with a commercial rust remover, such as RoVer or Whink. Follow package instructions. But rust removers that contain hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and will damage the porcelain finish on appliances and sinks.

Yellowing

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the General Rules for stain removal.

Some fabrics which are white or pastel colored contain optical brighteners or fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) which were applied during manufacturing. These agents can decompose when exposed to light and atmospheric conditions, or prolonged storage conditions. In some cases the entire fabric becomes dingy or develops a yellow cast. In other cases the yellowing develops only where exposed to light. The FWAs can also be damaged by the use of chlorine bleach.

• • Unfortunately, once the FWAs are damaged, the whitening agents can’t be reapplied to the fabric.
  • All fabric bleach or the use of specialty products available in grocery or drug stores, such as Rit’s “Whitener and Brightener” may help. Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label, and check for colorfastness first.

When soaking infant clothes with formula stains, you need to make a bucket of warm water, 1/2 cup Biz and 1/2 cup Deft, mix it well and allow the item to soak 3-4 days. Then wash as usual. Be sure to check that the stain is completely gone before drying. If clothing has been in storage sometimes these stains resurface. The heat of a dryer will set the stain permanently. If the stain is still there, repeat the procedure or try another chemical.

Watch the colors. Red will bleed when it comes in contact with color safe bleach (this sometimes includes pinks, oranges, and purples), and really dark colors, especially dyes on 100% cotton are not very stable.

So, Good Luck! You can stop throwing away clothes with removable stains, clean them, save them and bring them to Switcharooz and make some extra cash.

1. Cribs: with decorative cut-outs or slats more than 2 3/8″ apart (heads can get caught). Decorative spindles on crib ends higher than 5/8″ are also dangerous, T-shirts and necklaces have been caught on them. Often times, spindles are screwed on and can easily be removed.
2. Pillow style infant seats: filled with Styrofoam beads, pellets or foam. These have been responsible for many infant suffocations and should be destroyed.
3. Criss-cross expandable wooden safety gates: children’s heads can get caught. They are also available in large play yard styles. These gates are usable for pets, but we can not resell them and suggest you dispose of them.
4. Painted toys prior to 1976: could contain toxic lead.
5. Mesh playpens with drop sides with mesh openings more than 1/4″: they can create pockets where infants can get caught, breaks in the mesh creating larger holes can also pose a threat, so please check your playpens periodically.
6. Any toys or hooded sweatshirts with strings longer than 12″: pose a danger of strangulation.
7. No Car seats: We do no resell car seats unless they are part of a travel system and they are not expired. Car seats prior to 1981: these car seats were not required to meet the strict Federal Government’s safety standards. We can not accept these items at all and recommend that you discard yours immediately.
8. Any toy or piece of equipment that has been recalled: items are recalled frequently and for various reasons. We try to check recalls on all items that come in for resell. If you hear of any recalls please let us know, if you have a question about recalls, ask us. We are very concerned about child safety! Click here for the link to Consumer Product Safety Commission’s Recalls website.